Beta Hydroxy Standstill

9:27 am DIY, Facial Skincare

I’ve been wanting to add a good beta hydroxy acid product to my regime, but I’m having a lot of trouble finding the right one. I’ve read before that salicylic acid (the main BHA in cosmetic formulations) is only soluble in alcohol or oil, and I’m not interested in using alcohol-infused products on my sensitive and dryness-prone skin.

So of course, I started keeping an eye out for BHA products that were oil-based instead… but I haven’t found a single one. Nearly every BHA product out there is chock-full of harsh alcohol that this picky complexion just won’t tolerate.

One BHA product I found which doesn’t seem to contain large amounts of either alcohol OR oil is Juice Beauty’s Blemish Clearing Serum. However, this stuff is weaker than I’d like at only 1% salicylic acid, and the texture is kind of unbearable. It goes on incredibly sticky and the sticky feeling never really leaves you.

So my search has continued. I was thrilled when I found Devita’s Acne Solution Pads, since they claimed to be 3% salicylic acid but completely alcohol free, which is obviously a rare find.

I was a little skeptical, since I’d read those solubility claims elsewhere, and since I know witch hazel (the main ingredient in these puppies) can often be chock-full of alcohol even if it isn’t listed in the ingredients. But I figured that since they make a specific point of calling out the glaring absence of alcohol, then these must be safe.

And boy, was I wrong. I opened up the jar, and one whiff nearly knocked me out. These pads CLEARLY contain alcohol, and quite a lot of it — I haven’t been able to use them on my face at all. (I still use them to exfoliate after trimming my bikini area or shaving my underarms, because the BHA helps prevent ingrown hairs. But I had intended to use them on my face, and this is simply not an option.) Normally, being the consumer-hound that I am, I’d be more frustrated that these products are using deceptive marketing. But instead, I’m just still focused on finding a dang BHA product that I can use!

Years ago, I had used Aveda’s Botanical Kinetic Exfoliant, so I looked into going back to that stuff. But my older and now wiser self noticed that this stuff also has a high witch hazel and alcohol content, so that’s out (now that I know better). It would seem that everything in a toner-like consistency is completely off the table as far as alcohol concerns go.

I got to the point where I’m seriously considering just making my own. This would be a pretty big DIY endeavor for me, since I don’t usually mess with potent actives like salicylic acid — the potential for screwing up your skin is just too high. But I checked out The Personal Formulator, a website that sells ingredients for DIY formulations. They have a section where you can contact their chemist, and I’m working on getting some more specific solubility information through that channel.

If I can get the info I need, and if I can find a way to make salicylic acid soluble in a non-disgusting base, then I just might be making my first big-deal at-home concoction. I’ll keep ya posted!

2 Responses
  1. Samantha :

    Date: September 2, 2008 @ 11:12 am

    I know the perfect product for you…Paula Begoun’s 2% salicylic acid liquid…it’s a lifesaver. You can find it at http://www.cosmeticscop.com. It’s in a non-alcholic, non-oily base…it’s the best. The one-and-only beta hydroxy as far as I’m concerned. Her sunscreens are great too.

  2. Virginia :

    Date: September 3, 2008 @ 8:56 am

    Problem is, almost all of Paula Begoun’s stuff has other ingredients that freak me out. Her BHA stuff is in a strong alcoholic base, so it dries my skin out like crazy and ramps up my oil production.

    And sadly, her sunscreens all contain occlusive ingredients that break me out, too! :(

    In peeking at her BHA products, it looks like the liquid and the gel are off-limits for me, but I *might* be able to tolerate the lotion. But given how many skin-unfriendly filler ingredients it contains, I’d just really REALLY rather come up with my own solution… someday.

    I think the gal’s got some great ideas as to how skincare should be approached, but I fundamentally disagree with her on a LOT Of ingredients that she considers OK — perhaps they don’t break her out or make her skin look like wrinkled crepe paper, but I often find I’m too sensitive for other people’s skincare rules. (That’s why I got into DIY skincare in the first place — because no brands existed that didn’t mess me up!)

    I’ll definitely update if I ever do try her stuff. Just curious, but how long have you been using the BHA liquid?

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